On any given evening at Casimir, it’s entirely likely to find a smattering of the city’s best French chefs—not cooking in the kitchen, but relishing in the dining room. “That’s Payard’s executive chef, Phillipe Bertie,” a staff member whispers, “and at the end of the bar—the famous chef from La Goulue.” In its 11 years of business, owner Guillaume Blestel’s proud bistro has evolved from hotspot to classic mainstay, one that even the most exacting customers know, trust, and keep coming back to. But with the kind of consistency and tight execution coming from Chef Blair Hanelt’s kitchen, their continued success is no surprise.

Located in the outskirts of the East Village, Casimir was ahead of the trend in many ways. For one, it ventured into the now-hip neighborhood before anyone dared to. More than that, it was one of the pioneers in establishing a long-standing New York tradition: the sexy French bistro. As newcomers to the city with big dreams, Parisian Blestel and his Marseillais business partner and friend, Jef Soubiran, pieced together their space with a negligible wad of cash and undying amounts of passion. Beyond fulfilling their dreams of opening a restaurant together, it gave them a slice of ownership over their new home—now, they thought, they were real New Yorkers.

The irony, of course, is how much authentic French material found its way into Casimir. Just like their new music-focused venue, Zebulon (in Williamsburg, Brooklyn), the restaurant is named for a famous French cartoon character—a little orange dinosaur whose name extols the virtues of energy and positivity. Playful references to French culture (specifically, the rivalry between the owners’ hometowns of Paris and Marseilles) find their way into the menu item’s names, and the owners’ inside jokes are playfully sprinkled throughout. A true bistro, however, is well incorporated into the culture of its neighborhood, and this is one of the restaurant’s priorities—its employees all live nearby, as do its patrons, and much of the kitchen’s shopping is maintained within the few surrounding blocks.

Like any good Parisian bistro, Casimir felt worn in the day it opened 11 years ago, in part due to the “nicotine-colored” pigment used to stain the white artisan tiles above the banquettes and on the ceiling. Their tinted glow plays off the dark wood floors, graphic signs, decayed exposed brick, and myriad bronze-framed mirrors that capture vintage French style and shine under the warm, hazy lighting. In the back, a private garden patio features mismatched chairs and tables whose chipped paint and inviting colors look downrightly artistic under the glow of white Christmas lights.

Over the years, Casimir’s menu has stayed fairly consistent—attempts to change its offering have often been met with protest from their loyal clientele. A favorite appetizer, the terrine of foie gras, is made entirely in-house, and the richness of its flavors reflect the time and passion put into it. Less indulgent but no less delicious is the Escartefigue, marinated goat cheese with balsamic vinegar and herbs, eggplant caviar, and red pepper confit, all served with tomato-topped toast. A wonderful fish soup is in rotation as a special, served with rouille, a zesty saffron and garlic mayo to spread on croutons and dunk into the soup (named for the “rusty” color it takes on). The pure, unadulterated fish stock flavor gains heartiness from chunks of tender, flaky seafood, and a welcome punch of spice from its clever accompaniment.

Classic dishes at Casimir showcase the boldness that it takes to strip away the usual complications and truly let simple dishes shine. It’s said that diners will choose the Filet Mignon on their first visit—a good filet will gain the trust of the diner (Casimir’s gateway drug, so to speak). This one is served with a black pepper cognac sauce that truly isn’t necessary given the perfect execution of the steak, but is so buttery and poignantly flavored that it can’t be ignored.

A few “levels” of trust later, diners become addicted to a less common dish—the black boudin sausage, two links of mildly spicy pigs blood sausage served alongside slightly sweet, caramelized apples and mashed potatoes. The contrasting textures and flavors blend perfectly on the palette, making a once-daring dish into one that’s entirely approachable.

Less traditional entrees allow Chef Hanelt, a self-trained native of Boston’s South End dining scene, to showcase his raw talent. Duck confit, for instance, is uniquely trimmed in house rather than purchased pre-prepared, helping to maintain its singular moist texture. A study in duck’s versatility, the skin retains an immensely satisfying crunch while the meat underneath remains tender, falling apart with the touch of the fork. Lardons speckle a frisee salad, and roasted potatoes cooked in duck fat retain a signature meaty flavor. Grilled lamb steak is served perched over a bed of three bean ragout and served with the finest and strongest French mustard available—a revolutionary flavor for those who haven’t tried it, and a beautiful complement for the gamey, earthy meat.

Casimir can fill any sweet craving too, from rich chocolate cake to Amish-produced Capogiro ice cream. However, it would be a true shame to miss their most unique (and hard to find) Iles Flottantes, a dish that Vincent Smarro, manager and in-house wine expert, calls “multi-textural,” like the French take on Baked Alaska. The dessert floats a puff of poached meringue over a base of crème anglaise, all topped with a shell of caramel and almonds. The result is akin to eating vanilla clouds, only with a crunchy, sweet exterior.

As for the wine selection, Smarro makes nuanced and intelligent choices that reflect his years of experience. Bottles are affordable, and the value is great, especially with choices like the Pic Saint Loup by Domaine de Lavabre, a under-recognized blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan that is yet to be explored in the city’s dining scene. Smooth, leathery, and with a strong aroma of blueberry, it’s the perfect example of Smarro’s ability to find cutting-edge selections that satisfy both palette and wallet.